Monday, 28 August 2017


 The Mark V version of  my Chain of Command Tracker has gone into production and is ready to be purchased from  WARBASES, follow the link:

Martin Murray has done a nice job at replicating the Tracker using MDF.

As the majority of Chain of Command games are played with Troops using 5 x D6 Command Dice, the effects of falling Force morale on this Tracker are primarily set to accommodate this. The Tracker does offer modifiers to "effects" so that players may field troops with 6 x D6 or 4 x D6 Command Dice.

Rectangular area  marked "Command Dice" which is obscured by the dice houses up to 6 x 12 mm D6 dice.

Large Dial is the Force Morale dial:

  • monitors the Force Morale of the Troops.
  • left side of the dial helps set your Force's Morale, via a roll of 1 x D6, the results is cross referenced with the "roll number" on the left side of the dial, indicating your Force Morale (Elites and Green troop modifiers are listed bottom left).
  • right side of the dial, lists the effects of falling Morale. (when fielding Elites with 6 x D6 or Green Troops with 4 x D6, modifiers to apply to the effects are listed on the bottom right).
Small Dial monitors the Chain of Command points:
  • records the number of 5's rolled with the Command Dice.
  • once the number 6 on the dial is reached, it is reset to 0 and 1 x Command Dice is accumulated.
Panel on the top left side records the number of Command Dice accumulated.
  • this is achieved by moving the Perspex rod up one notch.
  • once a Command Dice is used the Perspex rod is dropped down one notch.

 cheers John 

Tuesday, 20 June 2017


I thought it would be a good idea to record the method and colours I used to paint my Late war British Infantry for future reference and also to share with others. These images have been sitting in my computer for some time but I did not have any time to put it together until now.

Its been a real learning curve for me (and continues to be), trying to paint 28mm figures, fortunately others have been kind enough to share their techniques and secrets.
Two people that I constantly refer to are Toby of  Artmaster Studio TV and Christy Beall of Wargames,Soldiers and Strategy . 
tFor super detail painting I thoroughly recommend visiting  Moiterei's bunte Welt
blog for inspiration .

Completed 28mm Late War British Infantry

Basing Technique:
1st figure: 
Trim flash lines with modelling knife and file.
-use Green stuff to sculpt helmet and rifle strap.
-I use magnetic sheets for base, cut retention on the top surface using a hobby knife and super glue the figure in place. see Basing 

2nd figure:
-apply Milliput to the base of the figure.

3rd and 4th figure:
-Undercoat with a suitable Primer

Flesh areas:
Left figure:
shows the application of 2 thin coats of Vallejo Panzer Aces Flesh Base 341

Right figure:
shows the results of applying the next stage of a wash Reikland Flesh of to the flesh areas.
once dry apply Agrax Earthshade between the fingers and the front portion of the face(small area around the middle of the face)>

Use the same Flesh base to highlight all the raised areas on the face and fingers leaving the dark fold areas intact.
Use Vallejo model color Flat Fleah 955 to further highlight aspects of the areas done in the previous step.

Use Model colour "White Grey" paint teeth and Game colour "Carne Marron Tan" for the lower lip only.

Right figure: paint the uniform with Vallejo model colour British Uniform.

Left figure:
Apply Agrax Earthshade wash over British Uniform colour
Once dry use the base coat to coat the shirt and trousers while avoiding the creases.

Right figure:
Apply the first Highlight 2:1 ratio British Uniform to Iraqui sand

2nd Highlight : increase the ratio to 1:1 British Uniform to Iraqui Sand

View the model from above and highlight the areas you can see with a increased portion of 1:2 British Uniform to Iraqui Sand

Webbing,Packs, Straps and Gaiters
Redefine any areas on the webbing and rifle that have been painted over with the flesh or Uniform colour

rear view

Left figure:
Use Vallejo model color Russian Uniform as the base colour and paint all the webbing, packs, gaiters and straps.

Right figure
1st Highlight use 1:1 ratio of Russian Uniform and Iraqui Sand.

Same info as above , (the gaiters can be painted the same colour or with Khaki following the same procedure for the webbing etc)

Webbing,Packs, Straps and Gauntlets
2nd Highlight 1:2 ratio of Russian Uniform and Iraqui Sand 

Helmet with Netting:
Base coat: VMC Olive Grey 888
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Dry Brush Netting on Helmet : use Russian uniform with a touch of Iraqui Sand

Helmet without Netting:
Base coat: VMC Olive Grey (may also use VMC German Dark Green)
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Dry Brush: use VMC Olive Grey(or VMC German Dark Green 1:1 Iraqui Sand

Rags on Helmet:
Brown Rags:
Base: Vallejo Model Color Beige Brown
Highlight: Beige Brown 1:1 Iraqui Sand

Green Rags:
Base: Vallejo Model Color Russian Uniform
Highlight: Russian Uniform 1:1 Iraqui Sand

Water bottle and spade handle:
Base: VMC Beige Brown
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Beige Brown and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Beige Brown and Iraqui Sand

Base: VMC Black Grey
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand

Wooden parts:
Base: VMC Mahogany Brown
Highlight: 1:1 ratio   Mahogany Brown and Iraqui Sand

Metallic parts:
Base: VMC Black Grey
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
3rd very light Highlight to some areas: Leadbleacher

Base: VMC Black Grey
Wash: Nulin Oil 
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand

Game colour "Carne Marron Tan"

Base: VMC Offwhite and lip of Mug any light blue color
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: with the appropriate colours 

Model Base:
Base: 1:1 ratio of VMC Flat Earth and Offwhite
Wash: Agrax Earth shade
Light Dry Brush: 1:1:1 ratio VMC Flat Earth,Offwhite and Ivory White

At this point I would touch up or further highlight anything that needs attending to.
Finally add Decals with decal fix.

Coat with 1 thin coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish

Apply 2 thin coats of any suitable Matt Varnish (I use AK Ultra Matt Varnish)
Its very important to protect your paint work if you are gaming with your figures.

Add flock to the base and your troops are ready to be shipped to the front line.

Cheers John 

Tuesday, 30 May 2017


A farm setting on the gaming table isn't complete without a pig pen, hence my DIY pen.
Dimensions 15 cm x 12 cm.
I decided that the a pen needed to suit both the French Indian War period and World War Two.

The pigs are from Pegusus 1/48 Farm Animals.
I undercoated them with Black primer.
Used wet blending technique to paint the pigs.
VMC Green Ochre 914
VMC Black Grey 862
VMC Iraqui Sand 819
Game colour "Carne Marron Tan"
Washed with a Nuln Oil 
Very light highlight with the respective colours.

The low stone walls are made from MDF as is the base and water trough.
The gate and shelter are made from bamboo skewers.
A coat of PVA was brushed onto the floor of the pen and covered with tiny stones.
The fiber material is rubberised horse hair secured in place with PVA glue.

Painting the model.
The complete model was coated with a Black undercoat.
See  low stone walls link for colours used.

The inner ground was dry brushed with VMC Flat Earth and then a light highlight of VMC Iraqui Sand was applied to selected areas.
A bit of VMC flat Earth was applied to the inner area of the walls to simulate mud.

The opaque white area on the ground is trying to simulate small puddles of water. This was achieved by using  Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510 mixed in with a tiny amount of off white and dabbed onto the desired area .

The Rubberised Horse hair was dry brushed with VMC Dark Sand and highlighted with VMC Iraqui Sand.

The wooden items:
Base coat of VMC Chocolate Brown  
Washed with Nuln Oil 
Dry brushed with VMC Beige Brown
Final light dry brush with VMC Middlestone 

 Flock applied  and ready for your Pigs.

 Pig Pen with 28mm Colonial settler for French Indian war period

Pig Pen with 28 mm Late War British Infantry for WW 2.

Monday, 29 May 2017


I will be hosting a Chain of Command event at MOAB this year.
( gentlemen's tournament - a excuse to spend 2 days gaming)

Theme: Late War WW 2 in France
Date:30 September - 1st October
Event duration2 days
Scale: 1:56 (28mm)
Games: 2 x games, per day, 3 hour max duration.(with option of a Big CoC game on the afternoon on Sunday)
Players required10
Armies needed: 5 Axis  5 Allies 
Event Address:Sylvania Heights Community and Youth Club Box Road, Sylvania. NSW  Australia 

More information is forth coming , soon from the  MOAB organizers, in the mean time enjoy the following videos.


Saturday, 20 May 2017



This pond is constructed from Teddy bear fur.
The benefits of using fur is; its  light weight,easily adapts and blends onto any terrain mat
and I can simulate windblown water effect without purchasing expensive commercial water effect products.

28mm figure added for scale.

French Alpine Goat added for interest.

Roughly cut out a e-regular shape of terry bear approximately 30 cm x 26 cm.
Using scissors, trim off the inner portion of the fur outlining the junction between the water,shore and grass.
You don't need to remove all the fur: leave a very short layer of fur in the water area, this  will help add a windblow water effect look to the pond.

Place waxed paper or a plastic sheet underneath the fur pond .
Using a old brush apply a generous layer of PVA glue onto the surface that has been trimmed and allow to dry.(sorry forgot to take a photo of the PVA glue on the fur)
Note the waxed paper/plastic will stop the underside of the pond sticking to the bench,  as the PVA  glue will seep thru the fur as it is drying.
You may need to apply another thin layer of PVA glue if there are too many fur fibers sticking up.

Once completely dry, paint over the dry PVA  with a Matt Black Acrylic Primer and allow to dry.
Paint over the Matt black Primer with Vallejo Black Green 980  and Flat Earth 983 together
using  wet blending technique to blend the colours together while wet.
You can paint the water more brown or greenish color, your preference, just don't paint it sea blue.

Edges of the pond:
Dry brush the edges of the pond with a very light coat of Vallejo Model Color, Dark Sand  or Iquai Sand.

Coat the water area with  2 coats of Acrylic Gloss Paint I used Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510.
Allow to dry, then use Vallejo Model Color Off White to dry brush some of the edges of the pond and small area around rocks or debris in the water - this dry brushing  should be very light.

Grass area:
Paint the fibers with a Green mix of paint with patches of Flat Earth 983.
Once dry use a old paint brush and apply PVA glue over the fibers and sprinkling  some fine flock.  

Add a few miscellaneous  bits to the pond for points of interest like rocks or branches.  
Allow to dry, then use Vallejo Model Color Off White to dry brush some of the edges of the pond and small area around rocks or debris in the water - this dry brushing  should be very light.

Last of all, add a Goat and your have your very, light, flexible and adaptable pond. complete with water effects.

I am currently thinking that this maybe a good way to represent rivers. (will have to give it a go and see how it turns out)

Thursday, 11 May 2017


I am currently in the process of building a Late War German Army for  Chain of Command. The first item I wanted to add to my  Support List is a Sniper team.
 After viewing pictures on the web of German snipers, I came across a unique pose by German sniper Matthaus Hetzenauer. 
I decided to perform plastic surgery on one of my 28mm German Warlords games plastic figures to mimic his pose.

Sniper team on the ruin Church grounds

Close up 

Carefully remove the legs of a torso with a hobby knife and secure the torso upright with blue tac.
Right Leg: 
Repostion the right leg along the ground and trim to fit the torso.
Using blue tac, temporarily fix the leg in place to assist in getting the right position.
Once you are happy with the position fix in place with model glue. 
Left Leg:
Make a cut above the knee on the leg leg that was removed and position it on the ground so that it is upright in a position to support the left arm.
Note there will be a big gap between this leg and the torso.

To Pack out the gap use bits of white plastic styrene sheet and pack them into the gap and glue in place: you are not trying to replicate the detail of the trousers and leg, all you want to achieve is a solid link between the leg and torso. (later using Green stuff you can complete the gap and sculpture the detail)

Locate this item from Warlord games German Grenadiers sprue.

Left arms:
Carefully remove all components of the left arm from the rifle.
This arm will be missing the hand, position the arm to rest on top of left leg and temporarily fix in place with blue tac.
Right arm:
trim the right arm with the rifle to fit hard up against the figures cheek.
Cut a small grove in the left arm so the rifle seats nicely in this slot and temporarily fix in place with blue tac.
Back to left arm:
Select the trim off a hand fro the spure and position it so it is covering the firing hand and rifle and fix in place with modelling glue.

Once set remove all the blue tac from the arms and fix all the components in place with modelling glue. Note large gaps need to be filled using white plastic stryene  sheet as described above.

Allow to dry,mix the two part Green stuff and with the aid of a modelling knife, contour the missing detail adding straps to binoculars and rifles.

Model a scope for the rifle using spare plastic sprue and white plastic styrene sheets.

I mount my figures on thin magnetic sheets with superglue and build up the base with Milliput. 
Undercoating, paint and flock and the Sniper team is ready to be shipped out on the next halftrack to the front line.

Matthaus Hetzenauer notorious for provoking fear amongst  Russian troops on the Eastern Front with 345 Kills.