Saturday, 20 May 2017

POND

POND

This pond is constructed from Teddy bear fur.
The benefits of using fur is; its  light weight,easily adapts and blends onto any terrain mat
and I can simulate windblown water effect without purchasing expensive commercial water effect products.

28mm figure added for scale.


French Alpine Goat added for interest.


Roughly cut out a e-regular shape of terry bear approximately 30 cm x 26 cm.
Using scissors, trim off the inner portion of the fur outlining the junction between the water,shore and grass.
You don't need to remove all the fur: leave a very short layer of fur in the water area, this  will help add a windblow water effect look to the pond.


Place waxed paper or a plastic sheet underneath the fur pond .
Using a old brush apply a generous layer of PVA glue onto the surface that has been trimmed and allow to dry.(sorry forgot to take a photo of the PVA glue on the fur)
Note the waxed paper/plastic will stop the underside of the pond sticking to the bench,  as the PVA  glue will seep thru the fur as it is drying.
You may need to apply another thin layer of PVA glue if there are too many fur fibers sticking up.



Water:
Once completely dry, paint over the dry PVA  with a Matt Black Acrylic Primer and allow to dry.
Paint over the Matt black Primer with Vallejo Black Green 980  and Flat Earth 983 together
using  wet blending technique to blend the colours together while wet.
You can paint the water more brown or greenish color, your preference, just don't paint it sea blue.

Edges of the pond:
Dry brush the edges of the pond with a very light coat of Vallejo Model Color, Dark Sand  or Iquai Sand.

Water:
Coat the water area with  2 coats of Acrylic Gloss Paint I used Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510.
Allow to dry, then use Vallejo Model Color Off White to dry brush some of the edges of the pond and small area around rocks or debris in the water - this dry brushing  should be very light.

Grass area:
Paint the fibers with a Green mix of paint with patches of Flat Earth 983.
Once dry use a old paint brush and apply PVA glue over the fibers and sprinkling  some fine flock.  

Water:
Add a few miscellaneous  bits to the pond for points of interest like rocks or branches.  
Allow to dry, then use Vallejo Model Color Off White to dry brush some of the edges of the pond and small area around rocks or debris in the water - this dry brushing  should be very light.



Last of all, add a Goat and your have your very, light, flexible and adaptable pond. complete with water effects.

I am currently thinking that this maybe a good way to represent rivers. (will have to give it a go and see how it turns out)





Thursday, 11 May 2017

GERMAN SNIPER

I am currently in the process of building a Late War German Army for  Chain of Command. The first item I wanted to add to my  Support List is a Sniper team.
 After viewing pictures on the web of German snipers, I came across a unique pose by German sniper Matthaus Hetzenauer. 
I decided to perform plastic surgery on one of my 28mm German Warlords games plastic figures to mimic his pose.







Sniper team on the ruin Church grounds

Close up 

CONVERSION PROCEDURE
Legs:
Carefully remove the legs of a torso with a hobby knife and secure the torso upright with blue tac.
Right Leg: 
Repostion the right leg along the ground and trim to fit the torso.
Using blue tac, temporarily fix the leg in place to assist in getting the right position.
Once you are happy with the position fix in place with model glue. 
Left Leg:
Make a cut above the knee on the leg leg that was removed and position it on the ground so that it is upright in a position to support the left arm.
Note there will be a big gap between this leg and the torso.

To Pack out the gap use bits of white plastic styrene sheet and pack them into the gap and glue in place: you are not trying to replicate the detail of the trousers and leg, all you want to achieve is a solid link between the leg and torso. (later using Green stuff you can complete the gap and sculpture the detail)

Arms:
Locate this item from Warlord games German Grenadiers sprue.

Left arms:
Carefully remove all components of the left arm from the rifle.
This arm will be missing the hand, position the arm to rest on top of left leg and temporarily fix in place with blue tac.
Right arm:
trim the right arm with the rifle to fit hard up against the figures cheek.
Cut a small grove in the left arm so the rifle seats nicely in this slot and temporarily fix in place with blue tac.
Back to left arm:
Select the trim off a hand fro the spure and position it so it is covering the firing hand and rifle and fix in place with modelling glue.

Once set remove all the blue tac from the arms and fix all the components in place with modelling glue. Note large gaps need to be filled using white plastic stryene  sheet as described above.

Allow to dry,mix the two part Green stuff and with the aid of a modelling knife, contour the missing detail adding straps to binoculars and rifles.

Model a scope for the rifle using spare plastic sprue and white plastic styrene sheets.

I mount my figures on thin magnetic sheets with superglue and build up the base with Milliput. 
Undercoating, paint and flock and the Sniper team is ready to be shipped out on the next halftrack to the front line.





Matthaus Hetzenauer notorious for provoking fear amongst  Russian troops on the Eastern Front with 345 Kills.

Saturday, 6 May 2017

COLONIAL SETTLERS 28mm

Since viewing the movie "The Last of the Mohicans" many, many years ago, I have been interested in wargaming this period. Thanks to Andy's  posts on his Blog and viewing Athilith's videos, reviewing the rule book "Muskets and Tomahawks"
I got hooked, I am slowing building up my figures but will not start playing the rule set mentioned above as I am currently committed to finishing the WW 2 projects I have started.

These figures are Colonial settlers, 28mm metal figures from Warlord games, I purchased them  in the same order  with a couple of packs of Late War German Infantry. I am currently  waiting for another order of Armed Colonial settlers to arrive.

I must admit, I really enjoyed painting these figures, it was a big change painting with bright
colours as opposed to the dark colours of World War 2 figures.The colour scheme of the figures are based on the pictures on the Warload games site.

Many bloggers have mentioned that they prefer painting Metal as opposed to Plastic figures, I  did not understand why, till I painted these figures and I must agree there is a difference, the detail is more crisp and well defined. 
cheers John







Wednesday, 3 May 2017

CHAIN OF COMMAND MARKERS part 1

PART 1


SHOCK MARKERS

After using many different markers to track Shock, I have decided to stick with these Shock markers I have made.


Section suffering Shock, 1 point of  Shock for the Bren team and 2 points of Shock for the Rifle team.


First step in constructing the Shock markers is to purchase some cheap red beads from the 2 dollar shop.
Scrounge around the garage and locate some nails with larger heads. Cut off the nail head leaving a small section of the shaft intact.
(thin metal sheet cut in circular shape to fit the tops of the beads maybe substituted for the nails)


Next step, glue the nail heads to both the bottom and top of the bead using super glue, once the glue has dried, prime with a suitable undercoat and paint the nail head with hard wearing red paint.

Final step, is the  construction of the base.
I use  warlord games figure bases and super glue in place 3 x magnets (10mm x 1mm) per base purchased at http://www.back2base-ix.com/rare-earth-magnets.html . Super glue another base on-top of the magnets, superglue one Shock marker in place, flock with fine flock, and allow to dry.  
The last image shows an additional 6 Shock markers that are held in place by the magnetic base along with the one that is superglue in the middle.

 


PINNED AND BROKEN MARKERS

Instead of using 2 markers to indicate a unit PINNED or BROKEN status I decided to combine the two into one, reducing the need for 2 separate markers.



To construct the markers I used A4 size sheet of Black Perspex, using a AUD dollar coin I mark out 6 circles.

The same is done on the Yellow Perspex.

Using a dremel type hand motor roughly cut out the shape.

Notice the shapes are not perfect circles. At this stage lightly sand only one side of both the Yellow and Black Perspex (this is done to increase the bonding of the 2 perspex pieces.

Superglue them together.

Roughly outline a star shape onto the paper covering the perspex.

Using the Dremel type hand motor with a cutting disc, carefully follow the outlines and cut off the unwanted perspex to reveal the star shape. 

Etch the words Pinned and Broken into the perspex again using the hand motor and a fine rose head bur.(or you can leave them as is allowing the colours to indicate the units BROKEN/PINNED status )

Using Vallejo Model colour 70847 Dark Sand paint over the wording, leave for a couple of seconds then wipe off with your finger, which will remove the excess paint leaving the paint in the etching.

Follow the above step but with this side of the marker I used Leadbleacher from Citadel.

completed markers

Sunday, 30 April 2017

DOUBLE 6's CARD


On a week night  you only manage to  get in one game, you pack your terrain in 4 boxes, cart them over to gaming store, spent 1 hour setting up the terrain, start playing and your opponent  rolls 3 x double 6's in a roll, not once but twice that night. I know its part of the game but does not make for a enjoyable game if you are on the tail end of it.

This  happened many times over the 2 day Chain of Command competition at Cancon 2017, here players came from all over Australia to play.

In response to this I designed a card that allows double 6 +, rolls to occur but stops the double Phases 6+, rolls occurring in a roll, which allow players multiple Phases of play.

I am not trying to re write the rules, just providing another option, a house rule to utilize with the agreement between players.


2 x laminated doubles cards

Basically: each player retains a card which is placed with the blue side faced up. 

When a player rolls double 6's+ he plays his double game Phase but also flips the card over to reveal the Yellow side.
When the same player rolls another double 6's+ instead of playing double Phases he applies the effects that are listed on the card.
example: if a roll of 3 x 6's are rolled:
Add 1 Chain of Command pip towards a Chain of Command Dice.
Play 1 game Phase.
End the Turn.
Flip the card over to the Blue side.
When the player once more rolls double 6's + he can play a double Phase and again flips the card over to the yellow side, etc. 

If you are interested in obtaining a PDF copy to print out for yourself follow the link below :

Double 6/s plus Card for Chain of Command game








Saturday, 29 April 2017

CHAIN OF COMMAND TRACKER "FINAL ONE"

FINAL CHAIN OF COMMAND TRACKER "MARK V"

On completion of  my MARK III version of my Chain of Command Tracker I constructed a larger tracker "Mark IV"  and packed it with all sorts of information. I thought this was going to be my final tracker but after using it while playing Chain of Command game, I found it was not as effective. It was much easier viewing the effect of rolling "Bad things happen" on a reference sheet rather than on the Tracker. 
I decided I needed to make a "simpler Tracker" but I also wanted one which looked a bit retro (WW 2 like).
Upon  viewing a imagine of a  1940 British wireless Set #18 , I decided to base my new design on it. 
Mark V Tracker made  completely from MDF , a couple of bolts and nuts, perspex, sheet metal, 2 x earth magnets and  painted Black and  German Field-grey. The white writing I painted by hand, I also painted some fake screws on the tracker.

The large dial records the Force Morale.
The effect of throwing the D6 for your Force's morale at the start of the game (with modifiers for -/+ for Green/Elite troops) is listed on the left side of the large dial.


The right side of the dial records the effect of reduced Morale suffered during the game which starts effecting the command of the troops when Force Morale drops to 4 and below.


Since the majority of players  game with Regular troops, I designed the tracker around these troops.
If Elites troops are used and there Force Morale drops to 4 or below, then add the modifier on the bottom right of the large dial, so Elites would add another Command dice.
If using Green troops the modifier would be minus another Command dice.


The smaller dial records the number of 5's rolled with the  Command Dice.
When the dial reaches 6 it is reset to 0 and the small perspex piece is moved up over the appropriate number of Chain of Command Dice, accumulated.

The clear perspex has 2 very small earth magnets in-bedded within the perspex.
The  small boxed area  has a thin overlay of sheet metal glued down on top of the MDF, this allows the magnets to adhere and allows for up/down movement of the piece of perspex.

Imagine shows 2 x Chain of Command Dice have been accumulated (available to be used) and 1 x pip has been accumulated on the Chain of Command Dice with the Force Morale set on 10.
The tracker accommodates 5 x 16 mm dice (for Regular troops) or 6 x 12 mm dice (for use with Elite troops) .  

This image compares the size of the  "Mark IV" and "Mark V"  tracker, 28mm figure thrown in for scale.
(As you can see, the Mark IV is packed with info)

Image of 1940 British wireless Set #18 which I loosly based my Tracker on .