Sunday, 15 October 2017

COBBLESTONE ROADS

This is one of five tables I made for the Chain of Command tournament at MOAB 2017.
I was not sure how to tackle the task of making Cobblestone Roads till I was inspired by Rob Hawkins Hobby Terrain Blog, although his tutorial is a  "how to make Flagstone Streets" I was able to use some of his techniques and modify them to make my cobblestone roads..  





I used 3 mm MDF for the road, the width measured 15 cm wide.
The tiles are 1 mm think cardboard, cut into small squares.
The borders are made from thin coffee stirrers found in the 2 dollar shop, cut into 8 mm strips and glued in place with PVA glue, 2 stacks high.


After setting the borders in place,Use a old brush to paint on a layer of PVA glue onto a 1/4 of the road.
 Use a sharp hobby knife to pick up the cardboard squares and set in place on the road covered with PVA glue - this I found was the quickest method of setting the tiles in place.


Continue this process till the whole road is covered with cardboard tiles.


Allow to dry overnight.


Paint PVA glue over the tiles trying to get most of the glue into the grooves.


Wearing gloves use your fingers to rub off and push the PVA into the grooves.


Cover the entire surface with a fine gravel.


Push the gravel into the grooves and continue to lightly push the gravel off the tops of the cardboard tiles. The gloves are used to protect your hands from scratching or cut caused by the gravel.


Allow to dry overnight.


Undercoat with Black Primer.


Using a wet brush technique (similar to dry brushing but with a loaded brush of wet paint) apply 2 x coats of Vallejo Model Color Green Grey. 
Using a wet brush technique apply over the surface: Vallejo Model Color Green Grey and Vallejo Model Color Offwhite 40:60 mixing ratio. Over emphasize this colour in some areas. You can also want to apply straight Offwhite to further highlight some areas, up to you.


Paint random tiles using Reikland Flesh/Agrax Earthshade and Black washes .
Last of all apply PVA to the edges with a brush and apply flock.
The large straight pieces measure 30 cm x 15 cm.


90 degree road piece.


45 degree road piece


Square piece measuring 15 cm x 15 cm. These pieces have no boarders and are used instead of T or cross sections. They are can also be used to make a Plaka area. 


This is a circular intersection, the middle area is idea for placement of  a monument.




The Bridge is scratch built from 5 mm MDF and detailed etched with a dremel type hand motor. The wall edges of the bridge are extended out on each side to accommodate and secure the road pieces.


cheers John 

ARMED COLONIAL SETTLERS 28mm


After spending the last couple of months making Terrain for MOAB 2017, I restarted my abandoned project, painting my Late War German figures but I did notice  my painting skills for painting figures  lacking and gone a bit rusty. I decided to tackle another project, painting these armed colonial settlers to brush up on my painting skills so I could get back to tackling the German figures.
These figures are Armed Colonial settlers from Warlord games and again they were a pleasure to paint. I used the painted figures on the Warlord games product site as a reference for the colour scheme.  
I am hoping my next venture into this period ,I with be painting up some French troops.










 cheers John 

Monday, 28 August 2017

CHAIN OF COMMAND TRACKER IN PRODUCTION

 The Mark V version of  my Chain of Command Tracker has gone into production and is ready to be purchased from  WARBASES, follow the link:
https://warbases.co.uk/?product=chain-of-command-dashboard

Martin Murray has done a nice job at replicating the Tracker using MDF.

As the majority of Chain of Command games are played with Troops using 5 x D6 Command Dice, the effects of falling Force morale on this Tracker are primarily set to accommodate this. The Tracker does offer modifiers to "effects" so that players may field troops with 6 x D6 or 4 x D6 Command Dice.

Rectangular area  marked "Command Dice" which is obscured by the dice houses up to 6 x 12 mm D6 dice.

Large Dial is the Force Morale dial:

  • monitors the Force Morale of the Troops.
  • left side of the dial helps set your Force's Morale, via a roll of 1 x D6, the results is cross referenced with the "roll number" on the left side of the dial, indicating your Force Morale (Elites and Green troop modifiers are listed bottom left).
  • right side of the dial, lists the effects of falling Morale. (when fielding Elites with 6 x D6 or Green Troops with 4 x D6, modifiers to apply to the effects are listed on the bottom right).
Small Dial monitors the Chain of Command points:
  • records the number of 5's rolled with the Command Dice.
  • once the number 6 on the dial is reached, it is reset to 0 and 1 x Command Dice is accumulated.
Panel on the top left side records the number of Command Dice accumulated.
  • this is achieved by moving the Perspex rod up one notch.
  • once a Command Dice is used the Perspex rod is dropped down one notch.

 cheers John 

Tuesday, 20 June 2017

LATE WAR BRITISH INFANTRY PAINTING GUIDE


I thought it would be a good idea to record the method and colours I used to paint my Late war British Infantry for future reference and also to share with others. These images have been sitting in my computer for some time but I did not have any time to put it together until now.

Its been a real learning curve for me (and continues to be), trying to paint 28mm figures, fortunately others have been kind enough to share their techniques and secrets.
Two people that I constantly refer to are Toby of  Artmaster Studio TV and Christy Beall of Wargames,Soldiers and Strategy . 
tFor super detail painting I thoroughly recommend visiting  Moiterei's bunte Welt
blog for inspiration .


Completed 28mm Late War British Infantry




Basing Technique:
1st figure: 
Trim flash lines with modelling knife and file.
-use Green stuff to sculpt helmet and rifle strap.
-I use magnetic sheets for base, cut retention on the top surface using a hobby knife and super glue the figure in place. see Basing 

2nd figure:
-apply Milliput to the base of the figure.

3rd and 4th figure:
-Undercoat with a suitable Primer


Flesh areas:
Left figure:
shows the application of 2 thin coats of Vallejo Panzer Aces Flesh Base 341

Right figure:
shows the results of applying the next stage of a wash Reikland Flesh of to the flesh areas.
once dry apply Agrax Earthshade between the fingers and the front portion of the face(small area around the middle of the face)>


Use the same Flesh base to highlight all the raised areas on the face and fingers leaving the dark fold areas intact.
Use Vallejo model color Flat Fleah 955 to further highlight aspects of the areas done in the previous step.



Use Model colour "White Grey" paint teeth and Game colour "Carne Marron Tan" for the lower lip only.

Uniform:
Right figure: paint the uniform with Vallejo model colour British Uniform.



Left figure:
Apply Agrax Earthshade wash over British Uniform colour
Once dry use the base coat to coat the shirt and trousers while avoiding the creases.

Right figure:
Apply the first Highlight 2:1 ratio British Uniform to Iraqui sand


2nd Highlight : increase the ratio to 1:1 British Uniform to Iraqui Sand


View the model from above and highlight the areas you can see with a increased portion of 1:2 British Uniform to Iraqui Sand


Webbing,Packs, Straps and Gaiters
Redefine any areas on the webbing and rifle that have been painted over with the flesh or Uniform colour
.


rear view


Left figure:
Use Vallejo model color Russian Uniform as the base colour and paint all the webbing, packs, gaiters and straps.

Right figure
1st Highlight use 1:1 ratio of Russian Uniform and Iraqui Sand.


Same info as above , (the gaiters can be painted the same colour or with Khaki following the same procedure for the webbing etc)



Webbing,Packs, Straps and Gauntlets
2nd Highlight 1:2 ratio of Russian Uniform and Iraqui Sand 

Helmet with Netting:
Base coat: VMC Olive Grey 888
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Dry Brush Netting on Helmet : use Russian uniform with a touch of Iraqui Sand

Helmet without Netting:
Base coat: VMC Olive Grey (may also use VMC German Dark Green)
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Dry Brush: use VMC Olive Grey(or VMC German Dark Green 1:1 Iraqui Sand

Rags on Helmet:
Brown Rags:
Base: Vallejo Model Color Beige Brown
Highlight: Beige Brown 1:1 Iraqui Sand

Green Rags:
Base: Vallejo Model Color Russian Uniform
Highlight: Russian Uniform 1:1 Iraqui Sand

Water bottle and spade handle:
Base: VMC Beige Brown
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Beige Brown and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Beige Brown and Iraqui Sand

Blanket:
Base: VMC Black Grey
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand




Rifle:
Wooden parts:
Base: VMC Mahogany Brown
Highlight: 1:1 ratio   Mahogany Brown and Iraqui Sand

Metallic parts:
Base: VMC Black Grey
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
3rd very light Highlight to some areas: Leadbleacher

Boots:
Base: VMC Black Grey
Wash: Nulin Oil 
1st Highlight: 1:1 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand
2nd Highlight:1:2 ratio Black Grey and Iraqui Sand



Buckles:
Game colour "Carne Marron Tan"

Mug:
Base: VMC Offwhite and lip of Mug any light blue color
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: with the appropriate colours 


Model Base:
Base: 1:1 ratio of VMC Flat Earth and Offwhite
Wash: Agrax Earth shade
Light Dry Brush: 1:1:1 ratio VMC Flat Earth,Offwhite and Ivory White


At this point I would touch up or further highlight anything that needs attending to.
Finally add Decals with decal fix.


Coat with 1 thin coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish


Apply 2 thin coats of any suitable Matt Varnish (I use AK Ultra Matt Varnish)
Its very important to protect your paint work if you are gaming with your figures.


Add flock to the base and your troops are ready to be shipped to the front line.

Cheers John