I was not sure how to tackle the task of making Cobblestone Roads till I was inspired by Rob Hawkins Hobby Terrain Blog, although his tutorial is a "how to make Flagstone Streets" I was able to use some of his techniques and modify them to make my cobblestone roads..
I used 3 mm MDF for the road, the width measured 15 cm wide.
The tiles are 1 mm think cardboard, cut into small squares.
The borders are made from thin coffee stirrers found in the 2 dollar shop, cut into 8 mm strips and glued in place with PVA glue, 2 stacks high.
After setting the borders in place,Use a old brush to paint on a layer of PVA glue onto a 1/4 of the road.
Use a sharp hobby knife to pick up the cardboard squares and set in place on the road covered with PVA glue - this I found was the quickest method of setting the tiles in place.
Continue this process till the whole road is covered with cardboard tiles.
Allow to dry overnight.
Paint PVA glue over the tiles trying to get most of the glue into the grooves.
Wearing gloves use your fingers to rub off and push the PVA into the grooves.
Cover the entire surface with a fine gravel.
Push the gravel into the grooves and continue to lightly push the gravel off the tops of the cardboard tiles. The gloves are used to protect your hands from scratching or cut caused by the gravel.
Allow to dry overnight.
Undercoat with Black Primer.
Using a wet brush technique (similar to dry brushing but with a loaded brush of wet paint) apply 2 x coats of Vallejo Model Color Green Grey.
Using a wet brush technique apply over the surface: Vallejo Model Color Green Grey and Vallejo Model Color Offwhite 40:60 mixing ratio. Over emphasize this colour in some areas. You can also want to apply straight Offwhite to further highlight some areas, up to you.
Paint random tiles using Reikland Flesh/Agrax Earthshade and Black washes .
Last of all apply PVA to the edges with a brush and apply flock.
The large straight pieces measure 30 cm x 15 cm.
90 degree road piece.
45 degree road piece
Square piece measuring 15 cm x 15 cm. These pieces have no boarders and are used instead of T or cross sections. They are can also be used to make a Plaka area.
This is a circular intersection, the middle area is idea for placement of a monument.
The Bridge is scratch built from 5 mm MDF and detailed etched with a dremel type hand motor. The wall edges of the bridge are extended out on each side to accommodate and secure the road pieces.
cheers John
The end effect is stunnng but it must have been very fiddly.
ReplyDeleteThanks Paul, initially it was, but once you get into a rhythm you can complete a section quite fast.
Deletecheers John
Incredible as usual John!
ReplyDeleteJohn
Thanks John for your comment
Deletecheers John
Always impressive and great to game on!
ReplyDeleteThanks Bart,not long now, we will be playing on them again at Cancon 2018.
Deletecheers John
Un BLEEPING believable! I wish I had the patience but at 83 I don't think I have enough time left! Beautiful but I guess I'll have to buy mine!
ReplyDeleteThanks Dick for your comments.
Deletecheers John
Good work!
ReplyDeletecheers Gonzo.:-)
DeleteAwesome WIP / tut. Thanks for sharing and atm I'm 100% sure I'll steal this idea. :)
ReplyDeleteThats great WeRT, please share your results when you have completed them
Deletecheers John.
A true vision splendid manifesting itself through proper planning, execution, and attention to detail. And absolutely the best terrain I have ever had the pleasure of playing on in over forty two years of wargaming.
ReplyDeleteThanks Richard for your comments much appriciated
Deletecheers John
Now these look splendid! Certainly well worth the work, but maybe not at all suited for people with the attention span of a lizard... like me.
ReplyDeleteI don't know about that Moiterei, I've seen what amazing work and detail you put into that house on your blog.
Deletecheers John
Thanks for sharing John - IRL they look fantastic (like the rest of your scratch built terrain!)
ReplyDeleteThanks Paul for your comments.
Deletecheers John
Simply fabulous John! A very impressive looking table too :o)
ReplyDeleteThanks Matt for your comments
Deletecheers John
Very good!
ReplyDeleteThanks Ivan
Deletecheers John
what an effort. i hope the gamers appreciated what they are playing on.
ReplyDeletethanks Catweaseloz and yes all ten guys for very appreciative and excited to play on the tables.
Deletecheers John
Absolutely amazing! The patience and the dedication you have for this is just impressive. Well done John!
ReplyDeleteThanks Dave for your comments
Deletecheers John
Your terrain is inspiring. I am going to copy all your methods!! Walls and roads! Thank you for taking the time to share your techniques. Love your buildings as well and my try them. Did you use MDF for your river sections too? Thanks you!
ReplyDeleteThanks ljr70 for your comment, good to hear you are inspired, it be good to see your work once completed. The river is made from 3mm MDF, I intend to write up a' how to " on the river in the near future , my computer is in for repairs at the moment and i hope I have not lost the photos I took.
Deletecheers John
Great roads John, I'm currently in the process of copying you and making my own. Could you describe "wet brush" technique a bit more though? If the brush is loaded with paint, how is wet brushing different than simply painting as normal?
ReplyDeleteSorry for late reply, just saw your post, Wet brushing is like dry brushing but you load up the brush with some paint not too much and lightly brush over the surfaces as opposed to the harsh dry brush stokes. Basically you are apply doing the same thing as dry brush but getting a thicker layer of paint on the surface of the object.
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